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You will certainly never get the expertise and experience without managing yourself there or attempting by yourself to do it. Collars sewn above the base of the neck usually follow the cylindrical form of the neck, reflecting the base of the necks contour.
Collars below the base of the neck usually follow the shoulderline angles. Notched collars are full of design variety in their widths, cuts, and closure details.
Most are based on a V-neckline, with a single- or double-breasted closure, as shown here. Band Collar This is the inside structure or base for the spread or shirt collar. Spread or Shirt Collar This collar has wings sewn on the band that help the collar stand up, away from the neck, to rest on the shoulderline. Here part of the bodice, when open, appears to be part of the collar, folding over, until the bodice is closed.
This is the name given to the bottom portion of this type of collar when it is on a suit jacket or coat. The notch is the cutaway section of a single or two-part collar.
The cutaway usually creates some form of a V. Without Sleeves 1. The armhole lines follow the curve of the center front. Arm on the fur side is behind the chest. Arm on the near side is in front of the chest. Measure the depth of a cap sleeve, matching up the sleeves on both sides. A puff sleeve has volume. Get the outline to stand up, away from the arm. The puff sleeve has gathers emanating from the armhole, the elastic casing, or both. The fit of the sleeve from its top to bottom.
The shape of the sleeve as it fits the arm. The drape of the sleeve near the elbow. Example of the finished illustration of this sleeve. It begins at the base of the neck, includes the waist, moving down to the hemline. It doesnt matter which side you start first left or right as long as you complete one area of definition before going on to the next.
You can use the natural contours of the chest to get the blouse or dress to drape over the form if the fabric has any cling factors. The sketching setups on the facing page illustrate how some of the sewing lines can help support the development of garment details on the figure.
They also serve to define the areas of focus, like completing the bodice details before drawing the sleeves. Working with center front on a pose. Sketching Skirts Some drape or construction details are taken for granted and are too fine or tiny to illustrate on the dressed figure or in a flat.
Here are a few things that can be done on your sketch. Flat Figure Template: Realistic, equal leg length. See pants template. On this diagram, each band of gray represents the hemline location, its name, and proportion in relationship to the legs.
Line quality makes the difference in a seam; use completed lines for seams; use broken lines for stitching. Practice drawing all types of lines with your extrafine and ultra-thin pens. Sketching Flares and Gathers The flared or gathered skirt folds and moves on the body in a random, free-form way in direct opposition to a pleated skirt, which has an organized, exact style.
To emphasize the movement of a flared skirt, draw each fold a different size from the next one. The folds of a skirt on the figure should follow the flow of the pose.
Notice the widest fold comes off the high hip. The smallest fold comes from the center, and a third midsize fold rests on the low hip side. Flared Skirt. A flounce has a straight seam, with a few folds.
A ruffle has a gathered seam, with lots of folds. Notice that the fabric on the flared skirt lies flat against the hipline, while the fabric on the gathered skirt puffs up away from the hipline at the waistband. Notice that the rows on the tiered skirt are connected, while the rows on the layered skirts are separated.
Sketching Pleats These pages demonstrate how to plan for drawing pleats. Each line on a pleated skirt usually has to match, unlike the folds in flares and gathers. Pleating is more regimented, organized, and systematic, regardless of fabric choice. This does not include engineered pleating in, for example, broomstick, mushroom, or crystal pleats. Box Pleats. These three pleats break the rules, are drawn less regimented, and, like all pleats, can be done any size, anywhere on a garment.
Notice how the panelsthe narrow rectangular shapesappear to be a bit closer together at the waist. They widen toward the bottom of the hem, opening up to show the back or inside of the pleat. Follow the body center and princess seam lines illustrated here. Start building the pleats, using these lines as guides.
It is easier to start in the middle and move out. Notice the variety of pleated hems. Sketching the correct pleated hem is a critical component for expressing your design. Sketching Pants Tailoring Think about how anything fits at the waist.
How is that fit created? Here are some examples. Waistline Treatments Here are a few design features for above, below, or at the waist to practice. The examples here, shown from the waist to the ankle, focus on hemlines for the legs. Paper Bag. Pockets Pockets often start by the princess seamlines, then swing over to the side seamline. Hemline Treatments Drawing hemlines, as they drape over the foot, usually includes sketching the shoe.
For this garment the hemline length, from the thigh to the knee, will be important. This hemline length has its own specific lengths from ankles to the toes or shoe height. K likes. Bina Abling, renowned fashion design educator and textbook author, demonstrates fashion. Fashion Sketchbook has ratings and 2 reviews. Free delivery worldwide on over 19 million titles. Are you an author? Help us improve our Author Pages by updating your bibliography and submitting a new or current image and biography.
Learn more at Author Central. Fashion Sketchbook by Bina Abling Only 3 left in stock — order soon. Published 1 year ago. Essentials Fashion Sketchbook Figure Templates to create your own designs! Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations.
Would you like to tell us about a lower price? Amazon Rapids Fun stories for kids on the go. Now in full color and completely revised, with updated instructions and images throughout, this introductory text explains how to draw women, men, and children, pose the figure, develop the fashion sketchbook bina abling 6th edition head and face, sketch accessories, add garment details, and prepare flats and specs.
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